There are very few luxury watches as historic, recognizable, and coveted as the Rolex Datejust. The Rolex Datejust, the brand's flagship dress watch, has been around since 1945 when it made its debut as the first automatic chronometer to display a date window. Since then, Rolex has continued to evolve the watch by improving its design and mechanics, while maintaining the unique look of the Datejust.
The Datejust men's watch has been offered in only one size - 36 mm - for decades. In fact, it took more than 60 years after the introduction of Datejust for Rolex to offer another size of Datejust for men. In 2009, Rolex unveiled the much larger Datejust II to meet the trend for larger watches. Then, in a surprising move, in 2016, Rolex replaced the Datejust II with the Datejust 41 with an identical case size. So today we are asking ourselves which is the better Rolex Datejust - is it the Datejust 36, the Datejust II, or the Datejust 41? Let's find out what each of these Rolex Datejust models offers.
History of the Rolex Datejust
1945 marked the 40th anniversary of the Rolex company. To celebrate it, Hans Wilsdorf and his team set out to present the world with a brand new watch model. It was also a way for Rolex to showcase all the innovations it had developed over the past decades. For example, there was the water-resistant Oyster case introduced in 1926 and the Perpetual movement (aka automatic caliber) from 1931. But Rolex did not stop there. To create the 40th-anniversary commemorative watch, Rolex added a date complication to the automatic movement. In addition, the company also designed a brand new five-link bracelet, aptly named the "jubilee bracelet".
Bringing together all these developments, Rolex presented in 1945 the first Oyster Perpetual Datejust model, the first self-winding wrist chronometer with date indication in an aperture on the dial. It was made in 18-carat yellow gold and, together with the new Jubilee bracelet, the watch also featured a fluted bezel framing the dial. The water-resistant Oyster case was 36 mm in diameter and included the characteristic screw-down winding crown.
Those of you who are familiar with Datejust watches will notice some key features missing from the very first Datejust. First of all, the name "Datejust" does not appear on the dial. Second, there is no Cyclops magnification lens above the date window - a now unavoidable feature of almost all Rolex watches with a date window. Rolex filed a patent in 1952 for the Cyclope magnifying lens for the date window, which allows the date to be magnified by 2.5 times for easier reading. And the company began applying this new invention to its watches in the same decade. In fact, when the Rolex Day-Date made its debut in 1956, it featured the Cyclops lens protruding from its glass above the date.
Although the first Datejust was only available in 18-carat yellow gold and fitted with the Jubilee bracelet, the collection eventually became the most versatile range of Rolex models, produced in a multitude of styles, materials, and, as we shall see below, sizes.
The Rolex Datejust 36
As mentioned, the Rolex Datejust 36 is the most traditional Datejust watch for men. As its name suggests, the Datejust 36 features a 36 mm Oyster case. This is an ideal size for a wide range of wrists. Large enough to make an impact yet small enough to be appropriate for any occasion, the Datejust 36 is still the most popular size in the men's Datejust range.
The Datejust 36 collection offers a wide choice in the second-hand market. As this is a watch that has been around for more than seven decades, there is a large choice of models. Whether you prefer a vintage Datejust, a Datejust year of birth, or a contemporary Datejust, you will find superb second-hand models. In addition, the Datejust 36 offers the widest choice of metal options, bezel styles, and dials. From the all stainless steel Datejust 36 models with a curved bezel to the Datejust 36 models in two-tone gold and steel with a fluted bezel, the choice is vast. In addition, Rolex has also launched Datejust Turn-O-Graph models with a rotating bezel. In addition, the Datejust 36 is available on sportier Oyster bracelets or more dressy Jubilee bracelets. In the aftermarket, it is also common to find Datejust men's models on leather straps.
Like most Rolex watches, the Datejust has undergone progressive modifications over the years while retaining the fundamental design codes. At Baselworld 2018, Rolex presented the latest generation of the Datejust 36 with a redesigned case, redesigned lugs, and a new movement, Calibre 3235. Not that we have ever doubted the relevance of the Datejust 36, but these new models show just how committed Rolex is to the evolution of the Datejust 36 mm men's watch.
The Rolex Datejust II
Over the years, men's watches have grown considerably in size. There are large luxury men's watches that certainly adhere to the mantra "take the plunge or go home". While Rolex offers larger sporty models, such as the 44mm Deepsea, 43mm Sea-Dweller, and 42mm Explorer II, for the more dressy Datejust II, Rolex has opted for the 41mm, which is easier to wear.
When Rolex presented the larger Datejust II at Baselworld 2009, the larger Datejust for men was met with great enthusiasm. Thanks to the 41 mm Oyster case, wide lugs, and wider Oyster strap of the Datejust II, men who wanted to wear a larger Rolex dress watch now had a model to choose from. The watch's larger dimensions and larger construction allowed for a masculine, modern and sporty approach to the classic Datejust. Naturally, within the Datejust collection, certain design features have remained the same, such as the Cyclops lens placed on the sapphire crystal directly above the date window at 3 o'clock. Also, like all Datejust models, the Datejust II models are water-resistant to 100 meters and are equipped with Twinlock screw-down winding crowns.
Over the years, Rolex has offered different versions of the Datejust II, such as the all-steel Datejust II, the steel Datejust II with a fluted bezel in 18-carat white gold, and a two-tone Datejust II in steel and yellow gold. However, the Datejust II has only been offered on an Oyster bracelet and not on a Jubilee bracelet, which is intriguing given that the Jubilee and Datejust are a classic pair. Perhaps Rolex sought to emphasize the sportier nature of the Datejust II by offering it exclusively on the three-link Oyster bracelet. Despite the initial success, the Datejust II collection was short-lived, finally coming to an end in 2016.
The Rolex Datejust 41
In 2016, Rolex set aside Datejust II and replaced it with Datejust 41. On paper, the Datejust 41 retains the same 41 mm case diameter, but the case looks different from that of the Datejust II. The Datejust 41 is thinner, its lugs are thinner and its bezel is thinner than that of the Datejust II. Therefore, the Datejust 41 is a more refined approach than the sportier Datejust II.
In terms of choice, Datejust 41 is available in a wide range of materials. There is, of course, the Datejust 41 in steel, the Datejust 41 in yellow gold, two-tone ( gold and steel ), as well as the Datejust 41 in Everose gold (a rose gold alloy exclusive to Rolex), two-tone ( gold and steel ). Rolex has also reinstated the choice between the Oyster bracelet or the Jubilee bracelet in the Datejust 41 collection.
The biggest change in Datejust 41 compared to Datejust II is the automatic movement that powers the watch. Rolex equips the Datejust 41 with the new generation of Cal. 3235 with an increased power reserve of 70 hours over the 48-hour power reserve of the previous Datejust II.
What's the best Rolex Datejust for me?
Now that you have all the basic information, which is the best Rolex Datejust for you? First of all, you need to decide whether you prefer the 36mm or 41mm size. If you prefer the 41mm size, then it's a matter of choosing between the Datejust II or the Datejust 41. Some people prefer the bolder look of the Datejust II, while others like the slimmer proportions of the Datejust 41. Which one suits you best? And if a higher power reserve is important to you, or if you want the choice of a Jubilee bracelet or Everose gold on a larger Datejust, then the Datejust 41 is the ideal solution. The classic Datejust design is essentially evergreen - it is simply timeless, as its seven-decade history illustrates. So when choosing between the three main Datejust collections, 36, II or 41, you need to choose the size that best suits your wrist. Once you have chosen the collection, you can choose between the abundance of materials, bezel and dial options.
